![]() The battery needs a proper charge to put things back to normal. ![]() Even running it for a long time will leave your battery in a weakened state. Once the engine is running, your alternator should supply enough charge to keep things going, but it’s a mistake to think that leaving the motor running will eventually charge the battery. In a worst-case scenario, using a set of jumper cables and another vehicle will often get you going (though it depends on just how flat the battery is). There are plenty of alternatives, so if in doubt, choose a different brand. Sometimes information isn’t as complete as it could be, so it’s important to check carefully. Many cheap car battery chargers do not work with AGM or gel batteries. These don’t contain water, which makes them safer if knocked over or in the event of an accident. The two most common are absorption glass mat (AGM) and gel cell (or just gel). VRLA: Valve-regulated lead-acid batteries are sealed units. These batteries are common because they’re comparatively cheap. ![]() You can usually tell one by a row of removable caps (or a single removable strip) along the top of the battery, which allows for fluid levels to be topped up if necessary. Both these types are also called “wet cell” or “flooded” batteries because they contain liquid (usually distilled water). You’ll find them on marine engines, golf carts, and other electric vehicles. ![]() Deep-cycle batteries release their energy slowly. Wet cell batteries: Most road vehicles leave the factory with a “starting, lights, ignition” (SLI) battery. So a 2-amp charger on a 40-amp hour battery will take about 20 hours. For a rough guide to recharging time, divide the amp hours of your battery by the amps of your charger. ![]()
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